Hi! I'm Heather from the Paso Robles Wine Club and today I bring you a theme that's dividing the wine world.
When
it comes to wine, "sulfites" are free sulfur dioxide (SO2)
compounds, frequently used for its antioxidant and antimicrobial properties. Sulfites
are naturally formed during fermentation and are therefore present in all wines,
although its usage is a widespread practice among winemakers, not only by
direct addiction to the wine, but also as a cleaning agent for barrels and other
winery facilities.
The
consumption of sulfites is generally harmless, but it is known that 3 to 10% of
adult asthmatics may be hypersensitive to them, with some experiencing
potentially life-threatening reactions. For this reason, specific labeling is
required if the presence of sulfites is detected – in the US and the EU, at
concentrations of 10 ppm or more. Contrary to a common myth, it's also unlikely
that sulfites are responsible for the so-called hangover, since there's no
medical research data supporting it.
However,
in high doses, they can produce unpleasant aromas. Moreover, for the sake of
purity, but certainly not oblivious to the recent trends in organic food
products, some winemakers are seeking to reduce the intervention and additives
used in their wines to a bare minimum, ideally zero. Perhaps their biggest
objection to the use of sulfites is that they don't only neutralize the harmful
yeasts and bacteria that could yield spoiled wine, but also those that help to
define the unique character of a wine's place of origin or even vintage: those
that, so to speak, bring tridimensionality to the wine.
Still,
regardless of the quality of the fruit used, how carefully it and its juice is
handled, and irreprehensible hygiene in the wine cellar, will it be feasible to
completely eliminate the use of added sulfites in the wine – at least in those
born without a spectacular natural acidity?
Some
producers do it, with mixed results: after some time in the bottle, some SO2-free
wines show themselves brighter, more interesting than their sulfited
counterparts, while others become prematurely oxidized or acquire other faults.
In a nutshell: given the differences between modern and ancestral wine making
processes, vintners are still learning how to make wine with no added sulfite –
sort of a trial and error process, regardless of the efforts made.
That
said, maybe the answer to the question whether to use sulfites or not is
"yes", but always in adequate amounts. Most winemakers are already
conscientious about the addition of sulfites, which they try to keep as low as
possible, the bare minimum to not risk the wine's premature decline.
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